Sewing machine



J. B'UONO ET AL SEWING MACHINE Sept. 12, 1933.

Filed Oct. 16, 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 :EE =E== A TORNEYS.

6 I- llll. L...

Sept 12, 1933. B ONO ET AL 1,926,644

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 16, 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN TORS' MMM A TTORNEYS.

Sept. 12, 1933. J. BUONOI ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed Odt. 16, 1931 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 fizzy INVENTO A T TORNEYS.

Sept. 12, 1933.

.1 BUONO El Al. 1,926,644

SEWING mourns Filed Oct. 16, 1931 s Sheets-Sheet 5 LL: lllULp m.

l o lyl llm INVENTORY,

(I 61 m m Fig. 1.

Patented Sept. 12, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT orrlcr.

6 @laiins.

This invention relates to a new and improved sewing machine.

One of the objects of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the blind-stitch type 5 which is especially adapted for sewing a hem.

Another object of this invention is to provide a sewing machine which is automatically operated so as to simulate a hand stitch.

Another object of this invention is to provide a sewing machine, preferably of the blind-stitch type, by means of which a plurality of layers of material are connected to each other, the stitch being caused to skip one of said layers of material at predetermined intervals, in order to simulate a'hand stitch, or for any other purpose.

Another object of this invention is to provide a sewing machine of the blind-stitch type in which the work-supporting plate is moved relatively to the needle atpredetermined intervals, so that the needle'is caused to skip one of the layers of fabric which are being connected by the blind-stitches.

Another object of this invention is to provide a machine of this type, with a regulating device for determining the-automatic shifting of the work-supporting plate.

Another object of this invention is to make a machine .which can be simply constructed and adjusted, and which shall utilize the essential parts of an ordinary blind-stitch sewing machine.

Other objects of this invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it being understood that the above general statement of the objects of this invention is intended merely to generally explain the same and not to limit it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a top plan view.

Fig. 2 is a side view on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged detailed'section of the means for regulating the downward turning of the pivoted work-arm.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5.

Fig.

7 is a sectional view on the line 7-7 of Fig. Fig. '7.

Fig. 9 is a sectional view on the line 99 of Fig. 7. v

Fig. 10 is a'detail elevation partially in section 8 is a sectional view on-the line 8-8 of on the lines 15-15 and 16-16 of Fig. 14.

Figs. 17 and 18 illustrate modifications.

, Fig. 19 is a reverse view of the piece of cloth illustrated in Fig. 14, showing how the stitches simulate a hand-stitch.

The invention is illustrated in connection with a blindstitch machine which is mainly standard in construction. This machine has a frame F,- a main shaft 1, a drive pulley 2 and the usual hand-wheel 3. It is also provided with the usual pivoted work holder 4 which is pivotally connected at 5 to the frame F of the machine. The machine is also provided with the usual thread tension 6 havingthe usual spring '7 and the usual regulating member 8. The main shaft 1 actuates the feed dog and the looper and the needle by means'of said standard connections which are shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

For example, the machine .comprises a feed dog bar 9 which is connected to the main shaft by means of a suitable eccentric 10. Likewise, the machine is provided with a looper 11 of stand ard construction, which is connected to a looper bar 12 and this looper bar 12 is connected by means of a ball-bearing to the usual turnable yoke 14 which is pivotally connected to the frame of the machine at 15. The looper bar 12 9 is provided with the usual yoke 16 which is connected'by means of the usual universal joint to the inclined projection 17 which extends from the collar 18 which turns in'unison with the drive shaft. The needle N is mounted by means ratio, so as to control the number of layers of material through which the needle passes in its successive strokes, For this purpose the workholder 4 is automatically depressed at each alterpasses.

nate stroke of the needle or in. any other desired ratio. The drive shaft 1 is located in a frame arm 25. It is to be understood that when we refer to the work-holder, we refer to the support 4 which is shown in Fig. 4. When we specify the work-holder, we do not intend to refer merely to the rib 22 which forms the fold or bight in the material. The rib or finger 22 is always operated in the usual manner and the action of this does not vary, save that the rib 2 2 is connected to the member 4, so that the rib 22 is adjusted or shifted in unison with the automatic shift of the member 4. However, the invention is not necessarily limited to a device in which the rib or finger 22 has a movement which does not vary.

As shown in Fig. 5, the main drive shaft 1 has freely mounted thereon a collar or sleeve 26, which has an eccentric portion 26a, and a concentric portion 26b. Although the parts 26a and 265 are integral, they may be considered as forming separate operating members. The eccentric member 26a has the usual eccentric strap 27 mounted thereon and this strap 27 is integral with a lever 28.

As shown in Fig. 4, this lever 28 is pivotally connected at 29 to a member 30 which is clamped or otherwise suitably secured around the shaft 31 upon which the rib 22 is mounted, so that the rib 22 is caused to oscillate. Any other form of rib may be used to form the fold in the fabric, in order to permit the formation of blind-stitches.

The concentric part 26b of the collar 26 has a gear 32 keyed thereto. One side of this gear 32 either has integral therewith or suitably connected thereto a ring 33. A pair of vertically movable arms 34 and 35 are provided and the outer periphery of each of thesearms is rectangular and preferably square. These arms 34 and 35 are also provided with openings through which the member 26b passes, and these openings are square and of slightly greater diameter than the sleeve 26b, so that the arms 34 and 35 can be vertically shifted with respect to the member 26b. The arm 34 has located therein a guide block 34a which fits upon the sleeve 26b and the arm 35 is provided with an inner guide block 35a which fits upon the sleeve 26b. The guide blocks 34a and 35a also have outer peripheries which are rectangular and preferably square, and they have circular openings through which the sleeve 26b The inner surfaces of arms 34 and 35 slide on the outer surfaces of guide blocks 34a.

and 351:.

As shown in Fig. 3, the eccentric member 26a abuts a portion of the internal surface of the frame arm 25. The assembly of the parts is maintained by the laterally projecting flange of the sleeve 26 and by means of a collar' 36 which is clamped to the shaft 1 by means of a screw 37". The collar 36 is provided with a pair of lugs 38 and 3811 which fit into corresponding depressions provided in the sleeve 26?), so that the sleeve 26?) turns in unison with the shaft 1. Likewise, the gear 32 is also caused to/turn in unison with the shaft 1 because the gear 32 is keyed to the sleeve 26b. When the shaft 1 turns the guide blocks 34a. and 35a do not turn in unison with the shaft 1 and the outer arms 34 and 35 likewise do not turn in unison withthe shaft 1.

The gear 32 meshes with a fibre gear 39 which is suitably connected to a metal plate 40 by means of a pin or pins 41a. The relative movement between said gears 32 and 39 is slight, so that they always remain in mesh.

As shown in Fig. 5, one of the edges of plate 40 abuts the adjacent edge of the member 33. As shown in Fig. 3, the arms 34 and 35 have their lower ends connected by means of a pin 41, which passes through an intermediate. link member 42.

Likewise, and as shown in Fig. 3, the arms 34 and 35 have a pivot member 43 on which the fibre gear 39 and the metal plate 40 are turnably mounted. The plate 40 is eccentrically mounted with respect to its pivot pin 43 and since the smooth periphery of the plate 40 contacts with the smooth periphery of the ring 33, the turning of the metal ring 40 by the fibre gear' 39 causes the up and down movement of the arms 34 and 35. The up and down movement of the arms 34 and 35 is guided by means of the guide blocks 34a and 35a.

As shown in Fig. 7, the pin 41 serves to pivotally connect the arms 34 and 35 to the link member 42, which is pivotally connected at 43 to a horizontally movable member 44, and which is also pivotally connected at 45 to an arm 46 which is pivotally connected by a pin 47 to the frame of the machine. The member 46 is shaped like a fork and the upper ends 44 of the member 46 straddle the regulating screw 47a and also straddle the block 48 which is threaded upon the screw 47a. The block 48 has lugs which abut the members 44. When this screw 47a is turned by means of the head 49, the block 48 is forced inwardly or outwardly, thus turning arm 46 and regulating the position of the member 42, which also regulates the position of the member 44. A pin 50 passes through the block 48 and this pin 50 is connected to the head 51 of the regulating device, which is connected to the frame of the machine by means of suitable screws 52, so that the block 48 can move in and out but cannot turn;

The head 49 has a toothed wheel 53 connected thereto. A click 54 is pivotally mounted upon a screw 55 and this click has a tooth 56 which is held against the toothed wheel 53 by means of a tension spring 57. The tooth 56 also serves as the index for a scale which is marked upon the tapered end of the member 49.

The work-holder 4 is tilted in the upward direction by means of a tension spring 60, the inner end of which is connected to the frame of the machine as shown in Fig. 8. The outer end of the tension spring 60 is connected to an eyemember 61 which is pivotally connected at'62 to a threaded member 63, upon which a regulating head 64 is provided. Hence, the tension of till.

end of this compression spring 67 abuts a sleeve 69 which is adjustably mounted upon the member 44. The sleeve 69 is integral with a clamping collar 66, so that the member 69 can slide along and be clamped on member 44 in any desired position in order to regulate the compression of the spring 67. When the member 44 is pushed outwardly by the arms 34 and 35, it is forced against the corresponding portion of the workholder 4, so as to downwardly tilt the work-holder with reference to the pivot 5.

In this particular embodiment, the gears 39 and 32 have a two to one ratio, so that the gear 39 turns once for every two revolutions of the gear 32. The gear 32 turns once with each complete oscillation of the needle. Hence, the workholder 4 is depressed or tilted in the counterclockwise direction once for each two complete oscillations of the needle shaft. If any other desired ratio in the skipping of the layers of fabric is desired, the ratio between the gears 39 and 32 can be changed.

The arms 34 and 35 move downwardly in order to turn the member 42 with reference to the pivot 45 and to thereby actuate the member 44 outwardly. The machine is particularly designed for securing a hand-sewn effect upon a hem which has three layers A, B and C. Every time a stitch is made, the thread is visible at the points D on the outside face of the layer A. In order to secure the imitation of hand-sewing, it is desirable to skip the markings D by having the stitch skip the layer A in anypredetermined manner.

Hence, the object of tilting the work-holder is to cause the needle to skip the layer A in any desired series as for example one to two, one to three, etc. For example, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 14, the thread T alternately skips the bottom layer A.

For example, Fig. 10 shows the needle passing through the three layers of the hem and Fig. 11

shows how the needle skips or misses the layer A so as to catch the hem only at the points 11a. When the material is in the position shown'in Fig. 10, it is caught at the points 10a.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 17, the bottom layer A is skipped twice for each three com-' plete oscillations of the needle, so that one of the stitches penetrates the three layers A, B, C and the next stitches penetrate the layers B and C. In Fig. 18 the stitches are arranged in series of four.

Fig. 19 shows the outer face of the hem, which simulates the effect of a hand-stitch.

The cloth is prevented from moving up too far under the action of the rib 22 by meansof a finger 70 which is mounted upon a pivot pin 7111 which is downwardly forced by means of a torsion spring '72. The pin '71 is mounted upon the extension '71 of an arm 71a. I

While the invention has been illustrated with one of the several types of blind-stitch machines, it is not to be limited to any particular type of blind-stitch, or to any particular type of sewing machine.

If the work-holder was mounted in the usual manner so that it could yield downwardly in accordance with the varying thickness of the layer or layers of fabric, the stitch would be uniformly formed in all the layers of fabric which are fed under the needle. However, by periodically moving the work-holder away from the path of movement of the needle, the needle can be caused to skip the outermost layer of "the hem or the like,

so that the thread is rendered visible at predetermined selected points, so as to give the eflect of a hand-stitch of varying closeness.

While the invention has been illustrated in connection with a hem, having three layers of fabric, it is not to be limited to any particular style of hem and it applies generally to all sewing operations in which the effect of a hand-stitch is desired.

The embodiment illustrated shows how the Work-holder is automatically depressed, at predetermined intervals, in order to cause the blindstitch to miss one of the layers of fabric supported upon the work-holder. However, it is to be understood that the invention covers any mechanism whereby a relative shift is produced between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holder in order to accomplish the above mentioned result.

We have shown a preferred embodiment of our invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

We claim:

l. A blind-stitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a pivoted workholder, a shaft,- a first gear connected to said shaft and turnable therewith, a second gear intermeshing with said first gear, an eccentric device connected to said second gear, a slide device mounted on said shaft and laterally movable with respect to said shaft, said slide device being connected to said.eccentric device so that said slide device is laterally moved to and fro by said eccentric device, and actuating means connected 1m to said slide device and adapted to turn said workholder at predetermined intervals.

'2. A blind-stitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a pivoted workholder, a shaft, a first gear connected to said shaft 5 and turnabletherewith, a second gear intermeshing with said first gear, an eccentric device connected to said second gear, a slide device mounted on said shaft and laterally movable with respect to said shaft, said slide device being connected to said eccentric device so that said slide device is laterally moved to and fro by said eccentric device, arl'd actuating means connected to said slide device and adapted to turn said work-holder at predetermined intervals, and regulating means adapted to control the tilt of the work-holder when it is tilted by said actuating means.

3. A blind-stitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a pivoted workholder, a slidable member adapted to tilt said work-holder, a link which is pivotally connected to said slidable member, a shaft, actuating means operated by said shaft and adapted to turn-said link in order to actuate said slidable member, and regulating means adapted to adjust the position of said link in order to control the movement of said slidable member.

4. A blind-stitch sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a pivoted workholder, a slidable member adapted to tilt said work-holder, a linkwhich is pivotally connected to said slidable member, a shaft, actuating means operated by said shaft and adapted to turn said link in order to actuate said slidable member,

and regulating means adapted to adjust the position of said link in order to control the movement of said slidable member, said regulating means comprising a pivoted arm which is connected to said link and shift means external to the frame 0 cated on said pivoted device.

adapted to support the material which is being stitched, a shaft, a first gear connected to said shaft and turnable therewith, a second gear intermeshing with said first gear, an eccentric device connected to said second gear, operating means connected to said eccentric device and turning said pivoted device at predetermined intervals, and means for forming a bight in the material which is being stitched while it is 10- JULIUS BUONO. MARIO BUONO. 

